Monday 28/2
5:45am. The uber driver is on time, and so am I. Good bye Bucharest, hello Budapest. I have very vague memory of this city which I visited a good few years ago while filming an advert, and I’m looking forward to rediscovering it.
I meet my friend and his daughter, we’re staying at a lovely flat not too far from the centre. On the way I come across the largest and colorfulest sweet shop. We go for brunch at a (nothing to write home about) local cafe. It starts snowing and we feel very European.
For the rest of the afternoon I catch up with some sleep and film my second casting tape, and then head over to Felix which has been recommended to us for dinner. A beautiful converted pump house with delicious dazzling gourmet food at pretty affordable prices.
We walk back along the river in the chilly (not to say freezing) night. The golden lights of the palace reflect magically in the dark cold river. A few moments later, at exactly midnight, the lights go out. Energy prices have gone up after all.
Tue 1/3
We choose our cafe more astutely this time and have a delicious breakfast at the cosy Sarki Füszeres. Definitely a keeper. On the way we spot Dunapark - a very promising brasserie with cakes to die for and we earmark it for tomorrow’s breakfast. I spend the rest of the afternoon doing some writing and taking a long calming walk on Margaret island, and meet my friends again in the evening for a stroll in the town centre and the Jewish quarter. We go past what I believe is the largest synagogue in Europe (my goodness it’s huge) and end up at a small but funky food market for a trendy but not entirely satisfying street food dinner. We walk back home through the characterful streets where we spot a couple of other (more modest) synagogues.
Wed 2/3
As planned we check out Dunapark for brunch. Apart from the grumpy waiter it certainly lives up to its promise and after a sumptuous meal we sample the delicious cakes (and eventually manage to get a smile out of our waiter. That’s more like it).
Budapest is renowned for it’s Roman baths and we opt for the most visited and Europe’s largest (apparently) - Szechenyi baths. I’m quietly excited. The many entry package options are quite confusing, service is slow, flip flops are compulsory and I pay for the very uncomfortable ones they sell. It takes us about 45 minutes to go through all the bureaucracy of getting in. Staff are friendly and the building is just stunning, but I have to say it’s a bit of an anticlimax. The (many) pools of varying sizes and temperatures are nice, but the sheer size and number of people, the unimaginative lighting and the pitiful restaurant make for an underwhelming experience.
We end the day with a sumptuous dinner at Textura - another gourmet restaurant, trying a bit too hard to be interesting but the food is excellent, the service is spot on, and we even get live guitarist playing Jewish tunes including, would you believe it, the Israeli hymn. Am I supposed to stand up in the middle of pudding?
We walk back home via the beautiful Liberty Square for some more Old Europe grandeur.
Thu 3/3
We have a leisurely homemade breakfast. The flight to Berlin is not until 4pm and we’ve got plenty of time, we might fit in a walk in town or something. I double check that I have all the entry requirements covered which I do. I’m so well organised. Hang on… online check in is closed for some reason. Hmm… wait a minute… The flight is at 2 not 4. Neither of us noticed (in my defence I didn’t book the tickets, but still…). Great. We shift to panic mode (sirens, red lights flashing, people running in all directions…). Get the flat organised, pack, order the taxi, get the lift, wait for the taxi. Waiiitttt for the taxi…. Eventually our cab arrives, our driver doesn’t wear a mask and tells us we don’t need to either. Today Budapest dropped the restrictions. Hurrah. She’s far too chatty for my over-excited nerves and I put my earphones on and look out of the window while my friend keeps her company. We just might make it on time.
We take the longer but quicker freeway route, pay the fine for airport check-in, and run to the gate.
Phew.
Nest stop - Berlin!
