Thu 3/3
We land at Berlin. Cold and cloudy. We somehow find ourselves at the departure lounge but eventually get to passport control and make our way to the train station. Hang on. Where is my wallet? Nowheretobefound, that’s where. I have a strong suspicion it fell between the airplane seat and the window. We’re already out so I can’t run back to the plane and look. I check online, call the airport lost and found, call the airline lost and found, maybe someone can have a look? The best they can do is tell me to fill in an online form. Bye bye wallet. I picture it still stuck there between the seat and the window… (if you happen to fly Wizzair Budapest to Berlin check seat 14F, you never know…). If I were enlightened I might see this as an opportunity to practice non-attachment. I have some way to go.
Now in Germany you don’t just have to wear a mask, it has to be a proper ‘professional’ one. The one that actually filters the air and you can see it moving in and out as you breath. It’s thoroughly uncomfortable, but on the other hand there’s less steam on my glasses. Pretty much everyone complies, very disciplined this lot.
As we approach Zack’s place I spot graffiti on the wall. It reads FCK PTN. I like Berlin already. (More on graffiti later).
The flat is very nice indeed, Zack just finished a full renovation and proudly (quite rightly) shows me around. Gorgeous. We go for a walk in the neighbourhood while I cancel my credit cards over the phone. We find a nice little local cafe that’s actually open at this time, an Italian owner and Australian waitress. Today clubs are finally allowed to open and she’s going back to her barwoman job. Exciting. We end the day at the Dog Brewery where Zack has Elvis Juice (some kind of beer), and I settle for elderflower pressé as disappointingly they don’t have my favourite German drink - kirsch-saft (yes, I know). On the way home Zack shows me a huge four story vintage cloths shop. I make a mental note.
Fri 4/3
Zack has meetings and I go on a solo tour of the neighbourhood. I’m on a mission to find the perfect cafe, naturally. I’ve got some writing to do after all. I open my ‘specialist cafe’ app. Three promising options. I go to Silo, the nearest one. It must be good as it’s full with a twenty minute waiting time. Nope. I head to the second option, a mere fifteen minute walk away, but it looks like there’s a building site where the cafe used to be. I eventually arrive to the third one. My feet hurt. It’s still there thank goodness. Oh. It’s closed. I’m getting grumpier by the minute. By now any old coffee and cake will do. But here they don’t take cards, and there they don’t have wifi… Arghhh. Finally across the street, like an apparition, I spot Calm Cafe. How apt. I’ve arrived. Next time, I promise myself, I will settle for the first cafe I see that’s open. (Who am I kidding).
This evening we have a Shabbat meal with Tsuzamen (‘together’) - an Israeli expat community in Berlin. I head home to get ready, not before passing by that large vintage store for some do-good fashion acquisitions.
We arrive at a lovely private home, room for bags and coats, busy kitchen, and long tables waiting to be populated. We sit down, I’m slightly apprehensive but I make an effort and glad I do. Some lovely people, each with their own unique and fascinating story of how they ended up living in Berlin. I find it interesting that people would go all this way to get away from their home country only to seek the company of their compatriots, but there is certainly something comforting and reassuring about the ability to connect with a very familiar ‘ready made’ community in a foreign land. Not to mention the delicious Israeli food.
Sat 5/3
Today there’s a farmer’s market in the neighbourhood. We try some yummy freshly made tortellini from the pasta stand, and take in the market atmosphere. A second attempt at Silo cafe, this time the queue is reasonable and we grab a table. The coffee is good albeit too cold (what is it with lukewarm coffee nowadays?), and I can tick that off my list now.
We roam the streets, window shop at some lovely artisan stores, and visit the quite impressive ‘Raw Space’ - a vast area of run down industrial buildings turned home for (or squatted by) a vibrant alternative creative community. Some music venues, vintage shops, and an abundance of graffiti to feast your eyes on. Indeed all of Berlin seems to be one big street art canvas. I do feel a bit sorry for some of the brand new buildings just given the ‘street cred’ treatment. How do you determine the difference between art and vandalism I ponder. I guess it depends on the quality of the work...
We walk along the river and reach the Berlin Wall with its own iconic graffiti, a real piece of history (and some true graffiti masterpieces). We then head to another historical site - Treptower Park with its vast soviet monuments - in the suitably chilly afternoon.
We end the day at a nice Vietnamese restaurant, not far from Alexander Platz. Yumm.
Sun 6/3
We have a hearty breakfast and Zack explains how to get to the airport. Just a simple train change on the way, easy. I think I find the correct platform, or do I? (Note to self - listen more carefully when given instructions). Some kind people point me in the right direction and I do make it on time. I board the plane full of gratitude, musings, and abundance of memories. Good bye Berlin, and thank you Zack.
…The familiar skyline appears through the clouds, hello London. I do love traveling, and it’s always nice to be back in your open sprawling arms.
Until the next adventure… hasta la vista! (aka auf wiedersehen)
